Friday, December 25, 2015

Happy holidays and 2015 as seen from the summit




December, 2015

I woke up this morning to a foggy Winter Solstice here in the Ozarks.  My suburban ranch-style house is nestled among trees in an early 1960’s housing development in South Springfield.  The development, “Parkcrest,” supplanted what was once known as the Kickapoo Prairie in Springfield’s early history, named after the Kickapoo tribe of the Ohio Valley that lived here for a few decades before being forced further west.  The neighborhood is quiet, “nice,” tidy, and tree-lined, the houses mainly populated by middle-aged to elderly law-abiding folks who have resided here for several decades.  South Springfield has grown up all around the neighborhood, and now a raucous hodgepodge of fast food, gas stations, retail stores, traffic lights, and such line the nearby six lanes of a major boulevard, capped off by a stunningly congested freeway interchange.  I feel fortunate that 835 W. Maplewood is far enough removed that there is no evidence of the neon, noise, and noxious presence that restlessly coils and slithers about like the copperheads and rattlers that once thrived here on the prairie.  And so, in this morning’s fog, I felt somewhat concealed in a countryside setting, the mystery and tranquility disturbed only by a few bird voices.

The Time of Little Light has settled in once again for its winter sojourn.  I am savoring this season, with its interior and introverted qualities and I find moments for reflecting on the year that 2015 has been for me.  Blessings and graces have visited often, some passing through fleetingly while others linger like a friend who’s arrived for long conversations over coffee.   Always they leave some remarkable essence with me, while simultaneously I allow them to carry off more of my disordered, banged up, and burdensome baggage.  A good exchange, I believe.  Who have these visitors been?  First and foremost is sobriety: two and a half years of living without the curtain of alcohol clouding my awareness.  Then come the treasures that any and all humans would want in their lives:  good health, valued friends, meaningful work, a sense of purpose, and connections made through service to others. All of these rest on the foundational gifts of food, shelter, and financial resources.  As the Psalmist penned, “surely my cup runneth over.”

The year began as I flew back home from Ottawa, where I had enjoyed the holidays with Andrew.  
National Military Cemetery, Ottawa
National Military Cemetery, Ottawa





Then, a couple of days later, I went back to work at the Fair Grove Branch Library, a lovely little reincarnation of Mayberry, USA.  My responsibilities were:  showing up, checking out and in materials, helping the public, and getting books and DVDs back on the shelves in proper order.  No sweat or stress, much vitality and visiting with the local folk.  Fair Grove is a sleepy little town north of Springfield, where the library is housed on one side of the new City Hall building, which also shares space with the Police Department.  Conjure up some scenes from episodes of The Andy Griffith Show, add colorful characters, a baby goat, fresh farm eggs deliveries to staff, and courtroom scenes with prisoners in shackles, and there you have it.  A succulent slice of life from the past (as I live and breathe!), while the rest of the world seems wrapped up in terrorism, political and religious strife, and widening financial and power gaps between the ultra-wealthy and the 99%. 


In late January, I drove to Casper, Wyoming to see my college friend Kaye, and then down to Boulder, Colorado, to play chef and chauffeur for my nephew Mike, who was recuperating from surgery.  We had a great time, and I loved being at the edge of the mountains.

In February a local election campaign effort began, with the goal of repealing Springfield’s city ordinance banning discrimination in employment and housing based on sexual orientation.  I got involved with the group working to preserve the ordinance, and did a lot of phone calling and door knocking with a local organization.  Springfield is sometimes described as the buckle on the Bible belt with a church on every corner, and so it should not have been a surprise to me to witness the flow of prejudice, hellfire, damnation, and pulpit pounding that erupted.  Hate and division became prevalent and Springfield made national news, including Time Magazine, when the ordinance was repealed by a close margin in early April.  I wrestled with this and felt anger, resentment, and even vindictiveness, but with the help of my program and fellowship of living with sobriety I moved right through this to the other side and came to finally and completely (after too many years) let go of my prejudice and resentment of the small minded fundamentalist and evangelical Christianity so prevalent in the area.  I have learned the hard lesson that nothing is more important than my sobriety. 

A week later, I flew to Ottawa to see Andrew for a week, happy to get out of Springfield.  Canada has offered, since 1996, legal protection for all residents against discrimination based on sexual orientation.  Section 2 of the Canadian Human Rights Act states that gay and lesbian Canadians are entitled to "an opportunity equal with other individuals to make for themselves the lives they are able and wish to have..."  What a concept, eh?

I resigned my part-time job at Fair Grove in mid-June with a mixture of sadness and relief.  I loved my work there… and yet I found myself stretched too thin between the job and the hours I was putting in online for Brodart, where my responsibilities were growing.  I’ve worked remotely for Brodart Collection Development since 2008.  They have been--and continue to be--a great company to work for, and I'm grateful they compensate me appropriately for my Master’s in Librarianship and extensive library experience.  I provide customized selection of materials for various library customers across the country, both ongoing monthly order lists and what we in “the trade” call Opening Day Collections for new branches.

My friends Mike and Camille from western Montana stopped by in late May, Andrew came for a three week visit in July, the Perseid Meteor Shower made its annual visit in mid-August (I woke at 3:00 a.m. to get a spectacular view of them, my first sighting in many years!), and I flew to Maine to see Deborah and Michael Cyr for a week later that month.  The day I returned home, Andrew flew in again from Ottawa for two weeks.

At the end of September I flew to San Francisco for a long weekend, then rented a car and drove to Redding, CA to see my brother and his wife for a week.  The last Sunday in October I set out for Ottawa, to help Andrew move back here.  In seven days I drove 2700 miles, helped Andrew pack his car and mine, stopped to see friends in northern New York, stayed overnight with my cousins Phil and Dorothy in Ohio, and wearily arrived home vowing never to do this kind of fast road trip again!  But, the fatigue of the road is long gone and happy memories are still with me.

I was in the hospital two days earlier this month for a little surgical tune-up.  As expected, the recovery has been speedy and relatively free of discomfort.  I’m grateful for Medicare and I wish all Americans could enjoy decent, affordable health care.  Canada long ago solved this issue (and as a Canadian resident I benefitted from its sensible health care), as have almost all other first-world countries.  


My big project at home this year has been to continue with a major landscaping renovation of the front yard as well as create foundation beds on the east and west sides of the house.  It’s been slow going, because that’s the only speed at which I can work outdoors during the heat and humidity, but the results are showing—with more to come in the next year.  The soil here is heavy, compacted clay and so without waving a magic wand and hiring landscape pros with machinery, I have been slowly working at amending the soil and turning over beds, creating new ones, and transforming hard-packed lawn into well-aerated beds for perennials and annuals.  I’m always on the lookout for wood chips from tree-trimming crews, as well as lawn clippings and shredded leaves from lawn service guys.  The compost barrel "runneth over" with leaves, kitchen scraps, soil, and big sacks of coffee grounds from the nearby Starbucks store.








 












Andrew temporarily moved to Ottawa in July of 2014 to finish his Masters of Social Work at Carleton University, which he began when we lived there from 2006 to 2008.  He’s back home now and almost finished with the program.  He will be doing an unpaid field placement here beginning in January with Mercy Hospice, which will be the final requirement for graduation and awarding of the degree.  He will also be teaching an Introduction to Sociology class at Missouri State University this coming semester, with additional classes in summer session and beyond.  Soon, he will be able to add MSW along with M.A., Ph.D., and Diploma of Analytical Psychology to his list of degrees!  Andrew is a member of the Ontario Association of Jungian Analysts and currently practices with clients.  His website gives more insight into the Jungian process of analytical psychology.

Over the past several months I have been cultivating my new venture as a proofreader and copy editor, targeting college and graduate students.  I’m scheduled to assist an Ed.D. student with preparing his thesis next summer, and have had a variety of clients this year.  My website is up, and word of mouth referrals are welcome.

I hope this has been a happy holiday season for you!  I’m sending you wishes for a stimulating, satisfying, enjoyable, and rewarding 2016--and I hope our paths cross.

     
 Col. Frank Fitts, American Beauty (film, 1999)


However...  the Duck says "The world is going to hell in a hand-basket, and it's still 
a wonderful life"  







Thursday, September 1, 2011

Bear Spray

[  Please start reading at the first post, which is several posts below.  ]
Sam--  “I heard it was a suicide.”

Rob--  “No, it wasn’t.  I don’t know precisely what happened.  I wish I’d been there.”

Sam--  “But there was a bear there, the news release said a bear was there.”

Rob--  “There’s there’s no mention of an attack.  The news release didn’t say bear attack. Bears are everywhere in Yellowstone.  I see them all the time.”

Sam--  “Do you suppose, could it be that he saw the bear and it scared him to death?”

Rob--  “Well, sure, to hear people talk, it would scare any human being to be there in the backcountry and run into a grizzly.”

Sam--  “So, it was a grizzly bear?”

Rob--  “Well, that’s what I hear everyone saying, as I move about from place to place.  Black bears don’t attack people, do they?”

Sam--  “I don’t think so…   A grizzly, hmmm….  Did they find it?”

Rob--  “How could they find it?  I mean, what do you look for?  Very few griz in the Park are collared.  So… really…”

Sam--  “Was he carrying bear spray?”

Rob--  “I heard that he wasn’t.  Kinda stupid…   Just to hear people talking now, they’re carrying bear spray between the tent and the outhouse in the campgrounds at night, let alone setting foot on any path beyond concrete.  I hear those folks at the general store say sales are way up on bear spray.”

Sam--  “I hear that he was in a closed area and that he was camping there.”

Rob--  “Really?  I don’t think so…  It happened on the Mary Mountain trail.  That’s not a closed trail.  I heard somebody say that they found his tent in the Canyon Campground.”

Sam--  “Then what was he doing so far back into the back country?  Mary Mountain Trail runs about twenty-one miles between the upper end of the Hayden Valley and the Upper Geyser Basin.”

Rob--  “He wasn’t using any sense, that’s what he was doing.  Anyone with a drop of sense would know to avoid hiking alone back there.  . ”

Sam--  “Is that a bear area?”

Rob--  “Bear area?  Are you kidding?  The whole park is a bear area, but people say the trail guides all have clear precautions about there being frequent bear activity on the Mary Mountain trail.”

Sam--  “But, I mean… well… can’t they control them?  Like… know where they are and put up signs and things?  I see those signs all the time.  ‘Warning:  you are entering an area in which bears are known to travel.  Use caution.  Travel in groups of three or more is recommended.’  You know?  Just use common sense.”

Rob--  “Common sense?  Listen, half the people who come here don’t use common sense, just watch the drivers of those cars.  Sheez, car accidents are the leading cause of death here in the Park.  What people need to carry is crazy driver spray.  Those idiots behind the wheel need to be maced, the way they drive.” 

Sam--  “Is that true?  Car accidents?”

Rob--  “Yep, and I kinda like to be there to look as I see those wrecks happening, too.  You know me, gore doesn’t bother me.  The number two cause of death is pre-existing conditions.  You know, heart problems, old age, etc.”

Sam--  “Then bears are third?”

Rob--  “Not even close.  Third is drownings, fourth is falls.”

Sam--  “What about that man from Southern California who was killed by a mama grizzly in early July… he was right there in Canyon area.” 

Rob--  “Well, sort of Canyon area, but it was in backcountry… on the Wapiti Lake trail.  They said he and his wife were trying to take pictures of the mother grizzly and her two cubs.”

Sam--  “Did he have bear spray?”

Rob--  “The man killed in early July?”

Sam--  “Yes, that guy from L.A..”

Rob--  “Him?  He did.  Someone told me he did.  And he didn’t use it.”

Sam--  “Hmmm… didn’t use it or didn’t have enough time to use it?”

Rob--  “Well, and did he know HOW to use it?”

Sam--  “You’re right, I think.  People don’t know how to use it, do they?”

Rob--  “They get off the plane, into the rental car, and get the bear spray at the first store.  No thought… no practice… no idea… Sheez, which reminds me… You heard about the dumb-ass twenty-year-old guy at the Mammoth Visitor Center?  Went into the Yellowstone Association Bookstore in the Center, buys bear spray, opens it up to demo to his friends how it works, and don’t you know, he releases the safety and sprays it right in the face of a woman, accidentally so he claims.”

Sam--  “Then what happened?”

Rob--  “Entire Mammoth Visitor Center had to be evacuated.  Cleared out for the rest of the day.  And then… there was the guest in her room in Old Faithful Inn.  She sees a mouse, gets out the spray, goes after the mouse with it, and damned if the entire Old Faithful Inn had to be evacuated.  A mouse!  Bear Spray!  Oh, now I’m started on this.  And there was an Asian tourist, comes up to the store counter with the bear spray, and asks how it works, do you spray it on yourself to repel the bears….”

Sam--  “Yeah, right… people don’t have sense… they think it’s foolproof.  Poof… spray it… bear disappears…  or, mouse disappears…easy.”

Rob--  “Right.  Take the wind… if it’s coming towards you, the wind I mean, then the spray’s gonna come right back into your face.”

Sam--  “And what does it do?  I mean, what’s in bear spray?”

Rob--  “Capu___... capusocin?… anyway, it’s some ingredient made from red pepper. The mucous membranes get all irritated.  I hear it’s pretty terrible.”

Sam--  “And it stops the bear cold, right?”

Rob--  “Not always, according to what I’ve heard.  Not all the time, anyway.  It varies.  Is it a griz or is it a black bear?  Is it a curious bear or an attacking bear?  Is it a mama griz defending her cubs?”

Sam--  “So… what does a hiker do?  Use it or not?  I mean, you don’t have time to think through all the variables and situations and stuff.  Use it or don’t use it.  Decide quickly.”

Rob--  “You got it.  Sums it up clear as mud.”

Sam--  “Do you have bear spray?”

Rob--  “Me?  What are you?  Ridiculous?”

Sam--  “Well, I mean… you’re always following around after bears, aren’t you?  I think I should get some.  You know, backup insurance and all… If that guy from Michigan had packed bear spray…”

Rob--  “You?  Carry bear spray?  You must be joking!”

Sam--  “No, this guy, this guy who got killed by the grizzly a few days ago… he’d be alive if he had been carrying bear spray.”

Rob--  “I heard that he definitely didn’t have any with him.”

Sam--  “Who told you?”

Rob--  “I overheard the recovery team jawing about it afterwards.  Seems they were upset after bringing out the body.  The way they talked, this guy wasn’t just killed by the griz, he was chewed on from head to foot and then dragged into the woods and partially buried.”    

Sam--  “So they didn’t find bear spray there?”

Rob--  “No.  They found his pack, but no bear spray.”

Sam--  “What are they going to do about these bears?  Can’t they move them to some other area?”

Rob--  “Humans are already everywhere else using the land, or else the land isn’t useable habitat for bears, or there are already too many bears there.  Yellowstone’s one of the last place for them.  And people seem to want to see them, to know they’re there.”

Sam--  “But I want to feel safe when I’m out in the woods.”

Rob--  “Well, you’re just a squirrel, you can’t be toting around a can of bear spray.  Besides, the bears want you to keep burying those whitebark pine nuts so they can dig ‘em up and eat ‘em.” 


[And with that remark, the raven flew off, sniffing the air for a carcass, calling kuh-WHAK, kuh-WHAK, kuh-WHAK, and the squirrel returned to running up the trunk of the whitebark pine, cutting loose pine cones to drop on the forest floor, then zooming to the ground, extracting the seeds, and caching them nearby.  Squirrel knew that grizzlies would thieve about half of his cache, so he knew to work extra long days gathering enough for winter.]






Grizzly attack--the aftermath...article from local newspaper

[  Please start reading at the first post, which is several posts below.  ]
Michigan man is second to be killed by a Yellowstone grizzly this summer

CARLY FLANDRO, Bozeman Chronicle Staff Writer | Posted: Tuesday, August 30, 2011

John Wallace was unmistakably a man who loved nature.
On nice days, he often wished aloud that he were someplace hiking, rather than working at the Portage Lake District Library in Houghton, Mich.
But the library had a waterfront view of the Portage Waterway, where several times a week a boat would pass by, carrying tourists to the nearby Isle Royale National Park. Each time Wallace heard the boat’s horn, he would watch it from the library windows until it was out of sight.
“He was longing to be on that boat going back out to Isle Royale,” said Jay Fedorocko, the library’s business manager.
But Wallace, 59, won’t be standing by those windows anymore.
Last week, his body was found along Yellowstone National Park’s Mary Mountain Trail. Park officials confirmed Monday that he was killed by a grizzly bear — marking the second fatal bear attack in Yellowstone this summer.
“Two bear-caused human injuries in a year has become rare, let alone fatal attacks,” said park spokesman Al Nash. “We haven’t seen any significant changes that we could point to that might help us understand why this has occurred.”
Nobody witnessed the attack, so Nash said it’s “just not possible for us to determine why this bear attacked Mr. Wallace.”
Wallace, of Chassell, Mich., a small city in the Upper Penninsula off Lake Superior, was discovered Friday morning by two hikers. He was traveling alone and had pitched a tent at the Canyon Campground sometime Wednesday. Officials believe the attack likely occurred sometime Wednesday or Thursday.
Park officials are setting traps in hopes of catching the grizzly that killed Wallace. If one is caught, the park will analyze its DNA to determine if it was the same bear involved in the attack. At that point, Nash said there would be “a very serious discussion” to determine what to do with the bear.
“We aren’t even there yet,” Nash said.
Local biologists have also been left to guess at what caused this grizzly’s deadly behavior.
“It’s just one of those rare things where we’ll probably never know why,” said Kerry Gunther, a bear management biologist for the park.
He said it’s been a good food year for bears. And besides these fatalities, there has been only one other conflict in the park involving bears. In that case, a grizzly was euthanized for aggressively approaching and charging a man.
Gunther did note, however, that more people are living in and moving to the Greater Yellowstone ecosystem, and park visitation has been increasing. Plus, over the past decade, the bear population has increased by about 4 to 7 percent. Currently, about 600 bears live in the ecosystem.
“More bears, more people, more interactions,” Gunther said.
On July 6, 57-year-old Brian Matayoshi was killed by a grizzly sow. He’d been hiking with his wife on the Wapiti Lake trail near Canyon Village when the two happened upon the bear, which was with cubs. Park officials determined the attack was defensive rather than predatory and did not attempt to capture that bear.
Last summer, a sow with three cubs ravaged the Soda Butte Campground near Yellowstone National Park and killed Kevin Kammer of Grand Rapids, Mich. Two others were injured. The bear was captured and euthanized, and its cubs were taken to a zoo.
Kevin Frey, a bear specialist with Montana Fish, Wildlife and Parks, also noted that the increasing use of backcountry areas is coinciding with a growing grizzly population.
“The thing we have to admit or realize is that the potential for bear-human encounters is going to increase,” he said. “The situation last year and this year we hope is not a continual thing.”
He and Nash said their respective agencies will continue working to educate the public, but they have not considered changes in policy because of the fatalities.
Outside the park this year, a grizzly bear attacked and injured two hikers in the Deer Creek area near Big Sky, and another grizzly was euthanized in July for “frequenting” a private campground near West Yellowstone.
While those in the Yellowstone area work to understand why this bear attacked, those in Michigan are still shocked by their loss.
Fedorocko said the library where Wallace was a maintenance worker has a small staff of 15. They plan to close the library the day his services are held and are considering the possibility of a memorial garden for Wallace. The garden would go between the building and the waterway.
Fedorocko said he remembers Wallace, who was married with no children, as a man who loved to be in the outdoors, to garden and cook, and who adored his dog. But he said Wallace’s death is still sinking in.
“I can’t believe it’s actually happened,” Fedorocko said. “Somebody I talked to last week is not here and won’t be here again.”


Grizzly Bear Attack--three

[  Please start reading at the first post, which is several posts below.  ]

Date: August 29, 2011
U.S. Department of the Interior
Yellowstone National Park
P.O. Box 168
Yellowstone National Park, WY 82190

 
FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE
August 29, 2011            11-090  
Al Nash or Dan Hottle (307) 344-2015  
---------------------------------------------------------
YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK NEWS RELEASE
---------------------------------------------------------
Identity Of Dead Hiker Released
A 59-year old man has been identified as the hiker found dead on a trail in Yellowstone National Park on Friday.
John Wallace was from the community of Chassell, in Michigan's Upper Peninsula.
His body was discovered Friday morning by two hikers along the Mary Mountain Trail. The twenty-one mile long trail crosses the center of Yellowstone, connecting the west and east sides of the lower portion of the
Grand Loop Road
.
Wallace was discovered along the trail, about five miles west of the Hayden Valley trailhead, which is off the Grand Loop road between Mud Volcano and Canyon Junction.
Wallace was traveling alone, and had pitched a tent in a park campground sometime Wednesday.
Rangers discovered signs of grizzly bear activity at the scene Friday afternoon, including bear tracks and scat.
Results from an autopsy conducted Sunday afternoon concluded that Wallace died as a result of traumatic injuries from a bear attack.
The Mary Mountain Trail, the Cygnet Lakes Trail, and the section of the Hayden Valley west of the
Grand Loop Road
have been closed to hikers.
Park rangers, wildlife biologists, and park managers continue their investigation of the incident.
Visitors are advised to stay on designated trails, hike in groups of three or more people, be alert for bears, make noise, carry bear spray, and not to run upon encountering a bear.
Hikers and backcountry users are encouraged to check with staff at park visitor centers or backcountry offices for updated information before planning any trips in the central portion of the park.
 - www.nps.gov/yell -


Death of a hiker--two



Date: August 27, 2011
Contact: Al Nash or Dan Hottle, 307-344-2015
National Park Service
U.S. Department of the Interior

Yellowstone National Park
P.O. Box 168
Yellowstone National Park, WY 82190
     
FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE
August 27, 2011            11-089     
Al Nash or Dan Hottle (307) 344-2015 ----------------------------------------------------
YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK NEWS RELEASE
----------------------------------------------------


Hiker Found Dead Along Trail In Yellowstone

An investigation is underway to determine the cause of death of a hiker found along a trail in Yellowstone National Park.

Early Friday afternoon, a pair of hikers reported finding what they believed to be the body of a human male along the eastern section of the Mary Mountain Trail.

The twenty-one mile long trail runs between Hayden Valley and the Lower Geyser Basin in the central section of the park.

Park rangers responding to the scene found the deceased victim along the trail about 5 miles west of the Hayden Valley trailhead.

There were signs of grizzly bear activity at the scene. Nothing uncovered so far allows for a conclusive cause of death, which apparently occurred on Wednesday or Thursday.

The identity of the victim, a male approximately 60 years of age from Michigan's Upper Peninsula, is being withheld pending notification of family members.

An aerial search of the area Saturday morning failed to turn up any current bear activity.

The Mary Mountain Trail, the Cygnet Lakes Trail, and the section of the Hayden Valley west of the
Grand Loop Road
have been closed to hikers.

Park rangers, wildlife biologists, and park management are continuing the investigation and discussing management options as more details emerge.

Park visitors are advised to stay on designated trails, hike in groups of three or more people, be alert for bears, make noise, carry bear pepper spray, and not to run upon encountering a bear.

Hikers and backcountry users are encouraged to check with staff at park visitor centers or backcountry offices for updated information before planning any trips in the central portion of the park.

 - www.nps.gov/yell -

Death in Yellowstone--one

By now you've no doubt heard about the man who was killed by a grizzly bear a few days ago here in Yellowstone.  Only a bare minimum of information was shared, leaving a big gap in one's mind that the human wants and needs to fill.  Here in the next few posts is some more info for you.

         Paul

Friday, August 5, 2011

Return

July 18, 2011

The town of Gardiner hugs the banks of the Yellowstone River at the north entrance to Yellowstone National Park in Montana, just downstream from where the Gardner River pours its turbulent, muddy waters into those of the wider, fiercer, eponymous Yellowstone that eventually co-mingles with the Missouri River near Buford, North Dakota, and flows from thence to join with the Mississippi just north of St. Louis.  Gardiner is, and always has been, a jumping off point for venturing into Yellowstone National Park.  Named for Johnson Gardner, a fur trapper who explored the area in 1830-31, it was born in the 1870s from the fervor of a few entrepreneurs catering to the tourist business and was officially incorporated in 1880. 

It is a town beset with contradictions.  They begin with its name.  The Gardner River, yet the town of Gardiner, traced to confusion and misunderstanding and a forgetting of its early explorer Johnson Gardner.  U.S. 89, a well-paved smooth highway, brings tourists down from Interstate 90 at Livingston, through the achingly beautiful Paradise Valley, then into Yankee Jim Canyon, and ends at the junction of
2nd Avenue South
and
Park Street
in Gardiner, Park County, Montana, USA. 
Park Street
is officially within the boundaries of Yellowstone National Park and is very occasionally patrolled by National Park Service rangers.  Step out inebriated from a bar on
Park Street
and one steps into the jurisdiction of enforcement rangers who have absolutely no patience with silliness or safety violations.  Step outdoors anywhere else in town and the grip of law is nonexistent.  Drive onto
Park Street
and one rolls along a stretch of road  well-paved, well-maintained, and generally well-ordered.  Travel on most other streets in Gardiner give hints of past paving projects and offer evidence of a slow devolution of asphalt back to gravel, dirt, and potholes.  The homes lining these streets can, for the most part, be charitably described as “modest,” while those that rest on the nearby slopes of Sheep Mountain to the northeast bespeak wealth and the privilege of breathtaking views.  The few attempts of residents and businesses to brighten the sere, brown, dusty landscape of Gardiner with flowerboxes, small well-watered patches of lawn, and other signs of life are a welcome contrast to the eye.  Shade from trees is rare.  Shrubbery growing here and there in a haphazard attitude has been chosen with the purpose of being resistant to nibbling from the hungry mouths of elk, deer, and bison who in winter increase the town’s population tenfold. 

Gardiner is the jumping off point for pleasuring oneself in the delights of nature and the nurture of singing streams, superb mountain views, and the amazing,  intoxicating intermingling of geysers, waterfalls, fumeroles, hot springs, and the richest display of wildlife outside the Serengeti.  Gardiner lives off the blood of those who come to Yellowstone to immerse themselves in the magic of spaces that remain undefiled, places where one can wander wild, experiences that bring back the wonder of the child, a landscape that constantly leaves one beguiled.

When I last left Gardiner, it was late in the afternoon of a short winter day in February, just a few short months ago.  The temperature was 5o, the light was soft yet sharply angled, and I was eager to return home to western Pennsylvania, following a volunteer stint of four weeks at the NPS’ research library and archives.  And now today, as I approach once again the elusive magic of this place of power and redemption, it is 95 o on a mid-July afternoon.  The light is so bright that the eyes hurt with an intensity suggesting migraine.  The landscape of snow and ice and bison and elk is replaced by fields and dust and automobiles and tourists.  A sense of anticipatory bewilderment is in the air as people wander about, pose for pictures at Roosevelt Arch, and search for something they cannot name or photograph.

Gardiner is just as I remember it, except for the fact that the day is about 90 degrees warmer than when I departed, another contradiction, a suggestion of the extreme polarity that is at its core. Also evident is the disappearance of the animals.  No bison roaming the streets, not a single deer leaping across the little streets in front of cars, nor any elk attempting to get a little nourishment from scruffy yard shrubbery.  And yet, the population has grown considerably.  I stop in the town grocery store that I like so much, North Entrance Food Farm—with its amazing selection for such a small town—and am stunned to see it bustling:  full parking lot, crowded aisles, and scores of young tourist-looking sunburned faces searching for caviar, pâté, and Côtes du Rhône.  Welcome to Yellowstone’s busy border town in high summer. 

So, here I am, mid-July 2011, and my new adventure begins.